The Middle East has long been a key fragrance market known for its appreciation of rich compositions, concentrated perfume oils, and elaborate scent rituals. In recent years, these traditions have begun to shape consumer preferences and now play a key role in international product development and trends.
The rise and global prominence of Middle Eastern fragrance was a recurring theme at Beautyworld Dubai 2026. A leading global beauty fair, Beautyworld Dubai brought together master perfumers, fragrance houses, and industry experts over three days in early October to showcase the biggest trends, developments and innovations in the fragrance industry.
On the first day of the fair, Farah K. Ahmed, the President and CEO of the Fragrance Creators Association, opened the Next in Fragrance conference with a discussion titled A Shared Accord: The U.S., the UAE, and the Business of Growth and Influence.
One of the most significant takeaways from this presentation was the prevalence of Middle Eastern perfumes on global social media. Ahmed noted that three of the ten best-selling fragrance brands on US TikTok Shop in the past year were from UAE fragrance houses: Lattafa, Armaf and Afnan.
The fragrance world is looking east
Regional brands are gaining international visibility, and finding audiences far beyond their traditional markets. These fragrance houses are competing for the attention of consumers who may have previously gravitated towards established European luxury brands.
But it’s not simply a case of Middle Eastern perfumers replacing established Western fragrance brands; rather, the two are increasingly influencing one another, resulting in exciting new possibilities for fragrance creation.
And while we often refer to these fragrances collectively as “Middle Eastern”, it’s worth noting that the Middle East doesn’t offer a single, uniform fragrance market. Each country or region, be it Oman, Saudi Arabia or the UAE, has its own history, traditions and consumer preferences.
Local traditions with global influence
Middle Eastern fragrances are not only rising in popularity in global markets; they’re also influencing how the world produces and wears perfume. The region is contributing ideas rather than simply adopting them, and the rest of the world is listening. Fragrance expertise and creative traditions developed in the Middle East are helping shape international conversations about what modern perfumery can, and should be.
Arabic perfume traditions are rich and complex, but a few signature Middle Eastern fragrance characteristics and rituals are becoming more prevalent in global fragrance trends:
Oud
Also known as agarwood, oud is one of the most interesting fragrance ingredients. Trees produce this rare, dark, fragrant resin as a natural immune defence against damage or infection. It is extremely scarce, making it among the most expensive raw fragrance materials in the world.
It serves as a centrepiece of Middle Eastern perfumery and has cultural significance beyond its smell, as it often used during hospitality rituals or during Friday prayers. It’s a complex scent with many facets: smoky, earthy, woody, leathery, and even sweet, offering depth and character.
At Beautyworld Dubai’s Next in Fragrance conference, master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud spoke about his longstanding fascination with oud and how a visit to the region deepened his understanding of the ingredient’s cultural significance. But he also highlighted that Middle Eastern perfume traditions extend far beyond this signature ingredient.
In an interview with our editor, he noted that there is much more to Middle Eastern perfume than oud, and that people from this region “aren’t only interested in strong scents – they like good perfumes, and they’re able to recognise them.”
Perfumers use oud alongside other ingredients to create modern, unexpected compositions that are globally appealing. Its heritage may be Middle Eastern, but today, oud is a star ingredient in niche as well as mass-market global fragrance brands.
Layering
Fragrance layering is one of the most interesting and significant Middle Eastern fragrance practices, and it has taken the global beauty industry by storm. Traditional fragrance routines often incorporate different formats, such as concentrated perfume oils, musk, bakhoor (incense) and scented body products or perfumes.
Modern fragrance layering may involve applying different scented products, as well as combining two different fragrances to create a unique olfactory experience.
Consumers are increasingly hungry for personalised beauty, and layering makes fragrance more personal. It allows for a unique fragrance composition that feels more individual. Plus, it encourages experimentation.
During his Next in Fragrance talk at Beautyworld Dubai, Master perfumer and founder of Matière Première, Aurélien Guichard, described fragrance layering as “intuitive” and “increasingly influential.”
Some fragrance brands, such as Kayali, market their products specifically for layering, encouraging consumers to mix and match scents to suit their mood and preferences.
Neo-gourmand
Another compelling trend that drew significant attention at Beautyworld Dubai 2026 was the rise of neo-gourmand perfumery. Traditional gourmand fragrances typically evoke comforting aromas with sweet, edible fragrance notes such as caramel, honey, chocolate, and vanilla.
Neo-gourmand fragrances take this concept further, combining the familiar sweetness of dessert-inspired notes with contrasting, complex and unexpected accords. Think sweet notes balanced by spices, woods, and salty, bitter and aromatic elements.
Neo-gourmand fragrances are an international trend and don’t have innate roots in the Middle East; however, Middle Eastern fragrance brands have mastered the art of this category.
Neo-gourmand scents are built on contrast, and their complex compositions often lead to more sophisticated fragrances. This category shows how contemporary fragrance is moving beyond straightforward scent categories and pushing boundaries to develop fragrances that surprise consumers in unexpected ways.
Brands on our radar
South Africa is slowly but surely gaining access to more Middle Eastern fragrance brands. While the selection is still small in comparison to the global market, many leading Middle Eastern brands are now available locally.
You can buy the luxury Omani fragrance brand Amouage in-store and online from Skins Cosmetics. Major brands like Armaf, Afnan, Lattafa, Paris Corner and Swiss Arabian are available in select stores and online from specialist fragrance platforms like Dubai Aroma and Dubai Perfumes SA.
In some shopping malls like Canal Walk in Cape Town and Mall of Africa in Johannesburg, you will also find small, dedicated Arabian perfumery stores.
The future of perfumery
Beautyworld Dubai effectively illustrated how Middle Eastern fragrance traditions are travelling across borders and influencing how the rest of the world develops, markets, and wears perfume.
According to Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, “brands are important, but the scent itself is becoming more important,” supporting the notion that consumers are developing a taste for the art of perfumery rather than purchasing a scent simply because it’s associated with an aspirational brand.
The global fragrance conversation is becoming multicultural, and the Middle East has evolved from being a major luxury fragrance consumer to an influential voice on the global fragrance stage.
As Middle Eastern fragrance traditions continue to influence global perfumery, we can expect to see more of the region’s distinctive ingredients, rituals and creative approaches reflected in the scents we discover and wear. For South African fragrance lovers, this opens up an exciting world of possibilities – and a chance to discover that the next signature scent might come from somewhere unexpected.
