How to build your foundation wardrobe

Marco Louis and NARS foundation

Many of us started our makeup journey with one foundation – and it stuck. But with the variety of different formulas on the market today, from dewy, to matte, to HD and more, building a fragrance wardrobe allows you the freedom to change your makeup look with different foundations, the same way you would with different lipsticks or eyeshadows.

To learn more about building a foundation wardrobe, we spoke to Marco Louis Ackers, National Makeup Artist for NARS South Africa and all-round makeup fundi.

BSA: Most of us started our makeup journey thinking we only needed one foundation. Why is this idea outdated?

Marco Louis: I don’t think the idea is outdated as much as it has evolved. As we become more confident with makeup, we realise that foundation isn’t simply about covering the skin – it’s about expressing how we want to look and feel.

Just as we build a fashion wardrobe for different occasions, I believe our complexion products should work the same way. Different formulas create different finishes, suit different environments, and help us express our personal style in a more considered way.

Some days call for fresh, luminous, barely-there skin. Other days require more coverage, more longevity, or a finish that will hold beautifully under lights or in photographs. That’s the philosophy behind building a foundation wardrobe: not replacing what you love, but giving yourself more options.

BSA: What are some of the different types of formulas available and do you recommend certain formulas for specific occasions?

Marco Louis: Foundation formulas have become incredibly sophisticated. Rather than asking which formula is ‘best’, I encourage people to ask: what do I need my foundation to do today?

For everyday wear I love a luminous, skin-first finish. For long workdays, events or photography, I reach for formulas that offer greater longevity and a beautifully perfected finish. Supporting products matter too. A great primer creates the ideal canvas, concealer perfects only where it’s needed, while the right setting powder and setting mist help your complexion stay fresh without losing its natural radiance.

NARS matte foundation

BSA: How many different foundation formulas do you think the average makeup enthusiast needs?

Marco Louis: Two is a beautiful place to start.

My first recommendation would be the NEW NARS Natural Matte Longwear Foundation. It’s the formula I reach for when I want beautiful longevity, a refined matte finish that still looks like skin, and confidence that my makeup will last from morning through evening.

My second would be NARS Light Reflecting Foundation. It delivers fresh, healthy-looking radiance with skincare benefits, making it perfect for everyday wear when you want your skin to look luminous and effortless.

Together they give you two very different complexion moods, and that’s the beginning of a modern foundation wardrobe.

BSA: Is it normal to wear different shades during different times of the year?

Marco Louis: Absolutely. In South Africa especially, our skin tone naturally changes between seasons. I often recommend having a winter shade that matches your natural complexion and a slightly warmer or deeper shade for summer. Foundation should evolve with your skin rather than fight against it.

Nars foundation

BSA: Are certain skin types better suited to particular foundation formulas?

Marco Louis: Yes, but I don’t believe in rigid rules. Choosing foundation starts with understanding your skin rather than chasing trends. Skin type, hydration levels, texture and climate all influence how a formula performs. Sometimes changing your skincare prep or primer can make just as much difference as changing your foundation.

My goal is never for someone to compliment your foundation. I want them to compliment your skin.

BSA: If you could only afford to buy two foundations, which NARS formulas would you recommend?

Marco Louis: Without hesitation, the NEW NARS Natural Matte Longwear Foundation and NARS Light Reflecting Foundation.

Natural Matte Longwear is my performance foundation. It’s beautifully refined, comfortable to wear and ideal when longevity matters.

Light Reflecting Foundation is my everyday essential. It creates healthy, luminous skin that never looks overdone.

I’d complete that wardrobe with NARS Light Reflecting Hydrating Primer, Radiant Creamy Concealer, Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder and Light Reflecting Setting Mist. Together they create a complexion that looks polished, lasts beautifully and still feels like real skin.

Just as we curate a wardrobe to express different versions of ourselves, our makeup should give us the freedom to do the same. The best foundation should never be the first thing people notice – they should notice healthy, beautiful skin and the confidence of the person wearing it.” — Marco Louis

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