For years, we’ve been under the impression that applying a higher SPF equals better sun protection, but new research suggests the conversation around sun protection may need a serious update.
A recently released white paper from Environ Skin Care argues that SPF alone is no longer enough to measure effective sun protection, particularly when it comes to long-term skin health and ageing.
According to the paper, while SPF remains important for preventing sunburn caused by UVB rays, it does not fully address the chronic and often invisible damage caused by UVA radiation, oxidative stress and inflammation in the skin.
“Consumers have become highly focused on SPF numbers, but true photoprotection is far more complex,” says Dr Blake Klug, Environ Medical Consultant and author of the white paper. “Modern sun protection should focus not only on preventing sunburn, but also on protecting skin longevity and cellular health.”
The invisible damage happening every day
One of the most important findings highlighted in the paper is that UVA rays – the type most associated with premature ageing – make up approximately 95% of the UV radiation that reaches the skin. Unlike UVB rays, which are strongest outdoors during mid-day, and linked to burning, UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and can even pass through glass.
Researchers say UVA exposure triggers oxidative stress in the skin, leading to inflammation, pigmentation, collagen breakdown and accelerated skin ageing over time.
Why higher SPF may not tell the full story
The white paper also points out that the difference between SPF levels may be smaller than many consumers realise. SPF 15 blocks approximately 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks around 97%, while SPF 50 blocks roughly 98% of UVB rays (only approximately 5% of UV exposure, and only during midday).
While higher SPF products can still play an important role, experts warn that consumers may develop a false sense of security and spend longer periods in the sun without reapplying sunscreen correctly.
“It isn’t sensible to rely on SPF alone,” says Environ Founder and Scientific Director Dr Des Fernandes. “For safe and effective protection against photo-damage and the prevention of skin cancer, one must adopt a holistic approach.”
According to the research, broad-spectrum protection combined with antioxidant support may play an increasingly important role in helping defend skin against cumulative environmental damage.
Rather than focusing only on wrinkles or pigmentation once they appear, skincare experts are increasingly interested in preserving the skin’s resilience and health over time. Central to this approach is the role of antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, which help neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure. The paper highlights evidence showing that antioxidants may help reduce oxidative stress, support collagen production and strengthen the skin’s natural defence systems.
We chatted exclusively with Solé Joubert, Global Education & Professional Experience Manager at Environ Skin Care, to learn more about what this new research means for the future of sun protection.
Q 1. We all know about the immediate danger of too much sun exposure, as most of us have suffered a painful sunburn at some point in our lives. But what are some of the long-term impacts sun exposure can have on our skin?
When we think about sun damage, we often think about sunburn, but that’s only one aspect of concern. The long-term effects of cumulative sun exposure include premature skin ageing, uneven pigmentation, loss of elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles, and a rougher skin texture. This process is known as photoaging and is largely driven by UVA exposure, which penetrates deeper into the skin and gradually damages collagen and elastin.
More concerning is that ultraviolet (UV) radiation can damage the DNA within skin cells, increasing the risk of skin cancers over time. What’s important to understand is that sun damage is cumulative; the skin remembers every exposure, even those that don’t result in visible redness or burning.
Q 2. For years, we thought that applying a broad-spectrum SPF product was enough to protect our skin against the immediate – and long-term – harmful effects of the sun. However, new research now indicates otherwise. What are some of the misconceptions we’ve had about SPF?
One of the biggest misconceptions is that a high SPF number equals complete protection. In reality, SPF measures protection against UVB rays only, which are responsible for redness and sunburn. It doesn’t tell us the full story about protection against UVA radiation, which is a major contributor to premature ageing and also plays a role in skin cancer development.
Another misconception is that sunscreen alone is enough. Modern photoprotection research recognises that a comprehensive approach is needed. This includes seeking shade, wearing protective clothing, reapplying sunscreen correctly, and supporting skin health with vitamin A and a wide spectrum of antioxidants.
Q 3. Most people choose a sunscreen based almost entirely on its SPF number. Is that the wrong way to shop for sun protection?
SPF is important, but it shouldn’t be the only consideration. I always encourage consumers to look beyond the SPF number and ask whether the product provides broad-spectrum protection, meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
A sunscreen with an extremely high SPF may look impressive on the label, but if it isn’t providing sufficient UVA protection or if it’s uncomfortable to wear and therefore applied sparingly, you’re not getting the protection you think you are. The best sunscreen is ultimately one that offers broad-spectrum protection and that you’re willing to apply generously and consistently every day.
Q 4. Which ingredients, other than SPF, should we look for in a sun protection product to ensure our skin gets adequate protection?
I would look for products that combine UV filters with ingredients that help defend the skin against environmental stress and free radical damage. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, beta-carotene, and other protective antioxidant complexes can help neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure. While they don’t replace sunscreen, they can complement a holistic daily photoprotection strategy.
Q 5. Many people only think about sunscreen when they’re at the beach. How much damage is actually occurring during an average day in the office or while driving?
Far more than most people realise. One of the key characteristics of UVA rays is that they are present relatively consistently throughout the day and can penetrate window glass. That means you’re still accumulating exposure while driving, sitting near a window, or working in a bright office environment.
These small, daily exposures add up over time and contribute significantly to photoageing. The damage may not be visible immediately, but years later it often presents as pigmentation, loss of firmness, and uneven skin texture.
Q 6. Please settle this debate once and for all: Is it necessary to apply SPF during winter, or on overcast days?
Absolutely. Cloud cover does not block all UV radiation, and UVA rays remain present throughout the year regardless of season. That’s why we often see ongoing sun damage even during winter months or on cloudy days.
I always say that skincare should be viewed as a daily health habit rather than a seasonal activity. Just as we brush our teeth every day, sunscreen should form part of a daily skincare routine, 365 days a year.
Q 7. Are darker skin tones at the same risk of UVA-induced ageing, even if they’re less likely to burn?
Yes. While darker skin contains more melanin and therefore has greater natural protection against UV-induced burning, it is not immune to sun damage. UVA exposure can still contribute to collagen breakdown, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, and visible signs of ageing over time.
In fact, pigmentation concerns such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma can be particularly significant in skin of colour and may be exacerbated by ongoing sun exposure. This is why holistic, daily broad-spectrum sun protection is important for every skin tone.
Q 8. Other than applying SPF, what are some of the practical everyday habits we can adopt to protect our skin from the sun?
Some of the most effective strategies include:
- Wearing a wide-brimmed hat when outdoors.
- Using sunglasses that provide UV protection.
- Seeking shade during peak UV hours (mid-day, between 11:00 and 15:00).
- Wearing tightly woven protective clothing.
- Supporting skin health with a well-formulated skincare routine containing a wide variety of antioxidants and vitamin A, while maintaining overall skin barrier health.
At Environ, we believe that healthy-looking skin is the result of a long-term commitment to skin health. Daily photoprotection, combined with a consistent skincare routine and sensible sun habits, remains one of the most effective investments we can make in our skin’s future.
“The sun is one of the most significant environmental factors influencing how our skin ages. The goal isn’t to avoid living our lives outdoors, but rather to be informed, consistent, and proactive in how we protect our skin every day.”
Solé Joubert, Global Education Manager at Environ Skin Care.
Radical defence
Earlier this year, Environ launched RAD Active Antioxidant Sun Cream SPF 20, a next-generation, skin-first formula that originally launched 20 years ago (it was the first ever sunscreen to combine antioxidants with UV protection). Lightweight, breathable and sweat-resistant, it is powered by a high performing antioxidant network (vitamins C, E and beta carotene) and enriched with barrier-supporting ingredients to effectively offer daily UV protection.
Clinically and dermatologically tested, this game-changing sunscreen is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and integrates seamlessly into your Environ regimen.
