Social media has been abuzz with panic this week after the EU announced the ban of a potentially harmful ingredient known as TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), which is a key ingredient in many gel nail products.
Effective 1 September 2025, all 27 European Union member states have prohibited the use and sale of TPO, which means that leftover or new stock containing TPO can no longer be sold or used in salons.
Rumours are circulating that the UK will follow suit in the coming weeks, and that more countries are set to ban the ingredient in the near future.
What is TPO, and why is it considered harmful?
TPO is a photoinitiator; a molecule that absorbs light and, in turn, triggers a curing reaction in a liquid to form a solid.
Simply put, when you place your wet gel nails under a UV lamp to cure them, the polish hardens. In many gel nail polishes, TPO is the ingredient that allows this to happen.
Scientists are studying the effects of TPO on the human body, and although only a few small studies have been completed, the results have alarmed EU officials enough to prompt swift action. The study that prompted the ban was conducted on animals and demonstrated that exposure to high concentrations of TPO led to long-term infertility. Taking precautionary measures, the EU classified TPO as a CMR (carcinogen, mutagen and reprotoxic), and banned it with immediate effect.
Is TPO commonly used?
In short, yes. Many brands include TPO in their gel nail products, which are still widely available outside the EU, including in SA. The ingredient is popular because it works well with both UV and LED light, giving salon owners more flexibility in choosing their lamps.
Should you be concerned, and what does this mean for your monthly gel manicure?
We have to make one thing very clear – the EU has not banned all gel nail products. Only those products that contain TPO have been made unavailable. At this time, South Africa has not yet banned TPO.
As mentioned earlier, very few studies have been conducted at this point, and the EU ban is considered precautionary; there is no conclusive evidence supporting the health concern in humans – yet. We’ve seen several nail industry experts – particularly in the USA – say that the ban is premature and conservative, and that the study does not take into consideration how humans use TPO in real-life scenarios (i.e. in much lower concentrations and placed on top of the nails rather than being orally ingested).
That being said, the EU is a leader when it comes to safety regulations in cosmetics, and many other countries take their lead when a ban is passed. If they have flagged something as potentially harmful, we believe it’s worth taking precautions, at least until we know for sure what the risks are.
So what does that mean for South Africans who go for gel manicures? While TPO nail products are still available in SA, we recommend checking if the brands you use contain TPO and deciding for yourself whether to continue using them.
“From my perspective, there are several great gel nail brands on the market. Even if the risk of harm is low, I would rather use a brand that I know is TPO-free than to risk it with a brand that contains TPO. For me, peace of mind is priceless, and knowing that my nail products are safe gives me one less thing to worry about.” Anien – BSA Editor
Now that the topic has gained so much interest and debate, it’s likely that more studies will be conducted to give consumers greater clarity on the risks. Only time will tell what the future holds for gel nail polish.
Tell us in the comment section below, will you be switching brands?
